Tuesday 18 July 2017

Viviers to Avignon – 69 km


The sun wakes us early on the boat, and with a long day in prospect we were eager to get going. A bit of a moment when attaching the hose to the water point, just beside a camper van on the bank. As I did, an enormous dog suddenly appeared and I jerked the hose, squirting water over myself and dog, which retreated. Otherwise no dramas, and we slipped away onto glassy waters – no wind yet.


Here are the cliffs of the Donzère gorge, less dramatic than it was before the Rhône was dammed for the first time – and difficult to photograph against the morning sun.


It took us a couple of hours down a rather boring canal cut to reach the Bollène lock – when it was built the deepest in the world at 26 metres, though that has now been surpassed, in Kazakhstan, I believe!



Here we are down at the bottom of the lock and looking back as we leave. It is quite something! We were accompanied today as for the past couple of days by a friendly Dutch flagged boat, though while the captain was Dutch, his wife was Hungarian, and the two sons Swiss.


Soon we were back on the river proper, and we admired the ruins of the Chateau de l'Hers at Roquemaure as we passed by.

We were making such good progress – a hotel boat emerged from the Bollène just as we arrived, meaning no delay – that we decided to go all the way through to Avignon, rather than stopping 30 kilometres short at Port l’Ardoise. Lots of hotel boats about, though. Last night at Viviers we saw one come in to collect passengers of excursion buses, and two others passed the night there. Arriving here at Avignon, we found at least four moored up.


Just before we reached the city, we spotted the Tower of Philippe the Handsome (Bel), which apparently marked the limit between the jurisdiction of the King of France and the Pope in Avignon.


 First views of Avignon from the water are impressive.


 And subsequent ones too.



And, of course, there is Le Pont. I think the dancing would be more on than under, but who am I to say?

Tomorrow we'll take a rest day here in Avignon, and try to get our annoying leak fixed.

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