We have been going on about the oysters, so here they are.
Succulent, fresh and sweet. Just 12 euro for the dozen, and seven for half a
litre of very acceptable white wine. This is the life!
The wind dropped during the night, and we awoke quite early
and optimistic. But it started filling in as we had our coffee, and it was with
some trepidation that we decided to go for the quick trip – just an hour –
round to Mèze.
Although it is just along the shore of the lagoon, you have to go right out
into the middle to skirt the oyster farms, and it did get quite bumpy, with
spray coming over the bows regularly. Saskia is not used to that!
As we approached Mèze, we saw the oystermen hard at work,
wind or no wind.
The village is attractive. Rather larger than Bouzigues, and
with more facilities.
With the wind howling, we were relieved to find space on the
visitors’ quay, and the efficient lady harbour-master (harbour-mistress? harbour-person?) ready
to help us dock.
After paying quite a lot for the night (42 euro),
we established where Olivier Filippi's nursery is, and decided to set off. It might
be hot now, it would certainly be hotter later. In fact, it was lucky we did go straight away,
since it turned out the place only opens in the mornings in July and August. To
walk all the way out there and find it closed would have been truly
discouraging.
We walked up narrow, winding streets until we hit the main
road out of town. Then it was a fairly long straight slog, but OK.
Here in the nursery, you can see an eager gardener
inspecting the offerings.
Visitors can stroll around Filippi’s own garden, and
we were delighted to meet this baby tortoise.
The garden looks out over the lagoon and the oyster farms.
Although flowers are few and far between at this time of
year, the garden was a delight, with many contrasting plants and foliage.
Before we left, we bumped into the man himself, who speaks perfect English. He specializes in native Mediterranean plants suited to dry
gardens, not needing irrigation, and is in fact a pioneer in this area. We will be ordering some plants for our garden
when we get home in September. He said to plant them in October.
We trudged back to town, briefly taking in the 17th
century Chateau Girard, now local government offices. There was also
a small covered market, where we made a few necessary purchases, before finally
getting down to those oysters:
Tomorrow we plan to make an early getaway before the wind
gets strong, and reach the mouth of the Canal du Midi at the western end of the
lagoon. Thence, onwards and upwards, perhaps as far as Carcassonne.
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