Friday 14 July 2017

Belleville sur Sâone to Lyon - 55 km


It is July 14, after all, and Belleville decided to celebrate shortly before midnight struck. A good display, particularly for a small village. Perhaps it will ensure the mayor gets re-elected – although on second thoughts, if the display cost as much as it looked, maybe not.


In fact it turned out to be a rather odd evening. When we arrived, there was a sign on the pontoon saying no mooring from 7 p.m. until the following evening. However, there was a French-flagged boat installed, so we decided to ignore the sign, tied up and plugged in. Maybe it was a joke, or a French revenge on Brexit Brits.

When our neighbours eventually returned, they turned out to be locals and explained that we really would have to move off the pontoon for the firework display later on. They would be going a couple of hundred yards downstream, and invited us to raft up to them. So that is what we did. Much good-natured banter was exchanged, plus wine. Their response to Côtes de Provence rosé was, well, not exactly enthusiastic!


We sat in our deck chairs on the aft deck for the fireworks, which, like many such displays, possibly went on a little too long. Then it was back to the pontoon in the pitch dark, fortunately without mishap. We plugged in again – water and electricity and mooring all being free here – then visited our neighbours for more small talk  and a glass or two of champagne. Finally to bed after midnight, with the music of the party on land still blaring away.


All was quiet, shell-shocked perhaps, when we set off at about 8.30.  Certainly no work going on at the sand quay. The river was very still with hardly any other boats, except for fishermen, of whom there were  large numbers, both on shore and in little dinghies.


As we passed through Trevoux, we spotted this tree trunk caught up on the bridge from the winter spate, and could appreciate why the people of Macon have reinforced their bridge supports with iron.

After a single lock, negotiated in company with a large, green barge, we were nearly in Lyon.


 The Ile Barbe protects the city from the north. The house looks quite interesting.


The Lyon skyline is largely dominated by modern and uninteresting apartment blocks, but the Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourvière is dramatic, as well as the mini-Eiffel tower alongside. Actually, it has nothing to do with Eiffel himself. Built in the 19th century, narrowly avoiding being dismantled for its iron in WWII, today it is a telecommunications tower.


As we cruised through the city, we admired the city council’s initiative in providing (concrete) sun loungers on the quayside. Akin to Paris’s famous beaches, I suppose.


The Cathedral of St Jean is our final photo of the day, because the camera battery chose this moment to give up. Too much excitement with all those fireworks, I guess. On the plus side, it spares you any more photo-gastronomy, at least for now.

Anyway, tomorrow morning a little shopping, and then onto the Rhone, with its series of gigantic locks to negotiate. Target destination is Condrieu (famous for its wines too), with a possible lunchtime stop in Vienne. Should be fun!

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