Wednesday 12 July 2017

Verdun sur le Doubs to Tournus - 55 km



We chose the Hotel de Maures, just across the square from the port, for our first gastronomic outing. Not just because it is the closest, but we had read somewhere that its pochouse was recommended.

The gourmande menu seemed reasonable, and half a litre of Macon Villages was only 10 euro.


Oeufs en meurette are poached eggs in a rich red wine sauce with shallots and garlic. Very rich, unusual and quite palatable.


However, it was possibly not the best precursor to the pochouse, which consists of a mixture of freshwater fish stewed in a thick and very rich white wine sauce. It was very filling, and in fact we failed to finish it. But certainly interesting. 


Back on the boat, we were treated to what proved to be the evening’s main entertainment: an enormous grain barge proceeding slowly backwards up the river. The professionals showed us amateurs in the port how it’s really done, while we all watched appreciatively.



We decided to set off early (8.30), although it was cloudy and quite cool, the idea being to arrive in early afternoon in Tournus, with time for some sightseeing. We passed through Chalon-sur-Saone after two and a half hours, and will probably stop there on our way back north


This monster was moored up – how the other half lives – and later on it passed us at Tournus. Quite a few passengers, so far as we could see.


Our trip today only included one lock, which proved entertaining as a couple of charming American ladies, accompanied by teenage sons, seemed to be having some trouble navigating the entrance in their hire boat. The lock-keeper roared round in his car to help them moor up.


The abbey of Tournus looks imposing as you come into town.


We were happy to find a comfortable mooring on the town quay, with water and electricity in reach, and apparently no-one wanting any money: though of course that may change later.


The old abbey has been much restored, but is a handsome building.


Surprisingly, during restoration a series of 12th century mosaics emerged behind the altar.




Tournus is a charming little town, and we were impressed by this thousand-year-old church.

Then it was back to the boat for a little R&R and a few chores. I think tonight’s gastronomic delights will consist of barbecued chicken thighs à la Saskia, with baked potatoes. We can’t manage too many of those rich Burgundian sauces!

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