We chose the Hotel de Maures, just across the square from
the port, for our first gastronomic outing. Not just because it is the closest,
but we had read somewhere that its pochouse was recommended.
The gourmande menu seemed reasonable, and half a litre of
Macon Villages was only 10 euro.
Oeufs en meurette are poached eggs in a
rich red wine sauce with shallots and garlic. Very rich, unusual and quite
palatable.
However, it was possibly not the best precursor to the pochouse,
which consists of a mixture of freshwater fish stewed in a thick and very rich
white wine sauce. It was very filling, and in fact we failed to finish it. But
certainly interesting.
Back on the boat, we were treated to what proved to be the evening’s main entertainment: an enormous
grain barge proceeding slowly backwards up the river. The professionals showed us
amateurs in the port how it’s really done, while we all watched appreciatively.
We decided to set off early (8.30), although it was cloudy and
quite cool, the idea being to arrive in early afternoon in Tournus, with time for
some sightseeing. We passed through Chalon-sur-Saone after two and a half hours,
and will probably stop there on our way back north
This monster was moored up – how the other half lives – and later
on it passed us at Tournus. Quite a few passengers, so far as we could see.
Our trip today only included one lock, which proved entertaining as a couple of
charming American ladies, accompanied by teenage sons, seemed to be having
some trouble navigating the entrance in their hire boat. The lock-keeper roared round in his car to
help them moor up.
The abbey of Tournus looks imposing as you come into town.
We were happy to find a comfortable mooring on the town
quay, with water and electricity in reach, and apparently no-one wanting any
money: though of course that may change later.
The old abbey has been much restored, but is a handsome
building.
Surprisingly, during restoration a series of 12th
century mosaics emerged behind the altar.
Then it was back to the boat for a little R&R and a few chores. I think
tonight’s gastronomic delights will consist of barbecued chicken thighs à
la Saskia, with baked potatoes. We can’t manage too many of those rich
Burgundian sauces!
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