These early stretches of the Canal du Rhône
a Sète
are frankly not very interesting. The abundant vegetation either side blocks
out most of the view, which anyway consists mostly of salt marshes.
Being the Camargue, there are, of course, the famous white
horses, which we saw from time to time. Some had foals, which, interestingly,
are born chestnut, and only turn white as they mature.
Every so often there are moorings, rather bleak and isolated.
This barge advertised itself as an artist’s workshop, but we didn’t pause to
sample the wares.
As we approached Aigues Mortes, we spotted this straight-backed
Camargue cowboy, or gardien, on the bank. No indication of what he was waiting
for.
There is a relief canal bypassing the city, but we keep left
into the centre. The famous Constance Tower is already in view.
Plenty of boats moored along the canal, some derelict, some
less so.
Aigues Mortes has quite a history. It was from here that Louis IX,
Saint Louis, set off for the disastrous 7th crusade with some 1,500
ships – maybe he was on his way to join the troops here when he lunched on that rock on the Rhône.
The Constance Tower – the name irresistibly brings a Wodehouse aunt to mind –
eventually also served as a prison. Various Templars were tortured and
incarcerated here, as well as a famous lady Huguenot, Marie Durand, who was
locked up for 38 years, from 1730 to 1768! Today, the town's major activity is sea salt production, and tourists, of course.
Anyway, here we are, nicely tucked up under the tower and
ready to set off into town when the heat of the afternoon eases. Tomorrow
morning there is a market, and then we will head for Montpellier.
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