Sorry to go on about the weather, and I understand it has been a bit iffy in the UK too, but it went on raining and raining until one felt quite Shakespearean – "For the rain it raineth every day" – or more likely, Winnie the Poohish, about it. But we got away early and pressed on. The canal would have been attractive with a bit of sunshine, but was really very monochrome without. Drops of rain even settled on the camera lens:
By mid-morning we had arrived in Arleux, where the Canal du Nord starts, heading south eventually to the Seine and Paris. We had hoped to stop there for a bit more shopping, but the quays were monopolized by commercial barges, and there was no place for us to tie up. So we went on another seven or eight kilometres, through the first lock – except that we didn't make it first time and tied up rather close, then had an exciting experience when the lock-keeper drained the lock rapidly. These locks are about 90 metres long and seven or eight deep, so hold a lot of water.
We stopped and lunched at a little place called Marquion, which promised a supermarket. It turned out to be an Aldi, and quite a hike away, but we managed to get a good shop in all the same.Wine supplies were replenished, and whisky – the Jack Daniels bottle contributed to the ship by Ruud having run dry. I am sampling the Aldi whisky as I write – apparently a blend of American, Canadian, Spanish and Scotch whiskies. Could be worse.
Anyway, onwards and upwards – we got through the seven locks up to the summit pound, enjoying the open Artois landscape.
One thing we didn't enjoy, as we waited for the penultimate lock, was this plant operated by Artois Methanisation, a subsidiary of Veolia. According to its website, it takes all kinds of waste, including sludge from sewage treatment plants, and turns it into methane, which it uses to generate electricity. Organic materials are also processed into compost for our gardens. Well, passing close by you understand why it is situated rather remotely in the countryside. The stench is atrocious! You wouldn't want it as a next-door neighbour, however green it may be:
After the final lock, we called it a day. It seems quite a pleasant spot up here, though a lashing rainstorm has just started (again), which diminishes the enthusiasm for a barbecue supper:
Tomorrow we go through the Ruyaulcourt tunnel. It's nearly five kilometres long. Convoys of boats and barges start simultaneously at each end, meeting at a cavernous passing place in the middle. We have done it before, but it is always nerve-wracking and gets the adrenalin flowing.
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