After posting the blog last night, we were fascinated as the evening progressed to see more and more people, mostly young, gathering in little groups on the dockside, fixated on the screens of their mobile phones. I know the young have an umbilical relationship with their devices these days, but this seemed even more than usual. Eventually we concluded that it must be this Pokemon Go game that is all the rage just now.
They had gone in the morning, doubtless chased away by the rain storms in the night. We set off in intermittent sunshine, and first came to the main market square, dominated by the handsome City Hall:
With the usual heroic statue out front:
Next we visited the cathedral, which is truly enormous. The building has been much knocked about and restored over the years, but is very impressive. Among many works by lesser-known artists were four major Rubens paintings, including this deposition of Christ:
And this impressive main altar:
Our next stop was supposed to be the museum of printing, including one of the oldest printing presses still around. However, to our disappointment, it was closed for restoration until October. So we went on to another museum, pausing to smile at Friday Market square, which consists of an open-air auction of any kind of household rubbish. Quite a good crowd watching, not sure how many were buying:
The next museum started out as the private collection of a 19th-century local businessman. Much of the art was strongly religious in flavour, but he did get his hands on some amazing Brueghels, including this one of Mad Meg (can that really be the title?):
After this dose of culture, not yet sated, we strode, or hobbled, off towards Rubens's house, pausing only for a light lunch and suitable accompanying refreshment en route. We approached the house with some trepidation, having mixed feelings about Rubens. But it was well worth the visit. The house is delightfully preserved, and there are some excellent pictures to see. Here's the kitchen:
Here's a self-portrait of the man himself – hat at a rakish tilt:
They also have on show the Van Dyck sketch that was famously identified on the BBC's Antiques Roadshow programme:
And a self-portrait of Van Dyck. He clearly thinks quite a lot of himself:
The courtyard of the house was impressive. Art was obviously good business for Mr Rubens or rather Sir Peter Paul.
Our final stop was the well-known Antwerp Central railway station. It is certainly grand, reminding one of Grand Central. No Oyster Bar that I could see, though.
Tomorrow we will resume our trip south towards Paris. We should get beyond Brussels, but you never know with the traffic.
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