Saturday 16 July 2016

Back in Hanseatic territory

Giethorn to Kampen

We set off from Giethorn after a comfortable night and filling up with water. Fairly soon there was a mini-drama on the canal: a group of teenagers, evidently camping on the canal side, were setting off in canoes in a rather haphazard manner. As we were about to overtake them, their guide boat, with a man with a loud hailer shouting at the kids, decided to turn sharply across the channel in front of us. It turned out he was also towing several of the canoes, for reasons I cannot understand. Anyway, one of them capsized and tipped the two occupants into the water. The second boy, clinging to the canoe behind in this picture, seemed to be in real distress. Of course, being the Netherlands, no one was wearing a life jacket. There was no way we could stop without making the situation worse, so on we went.



Our goal for the day was Kampen, a Hanseatic League city that was at its peak in the 15th century, and the route was fairly straightforward. A single lock to negotiate and a couple of bridges, which did not detain us. Much of the landscape was fairly bleak, and it was a windy, grey day. As we approached Kampen, we were held up a by a second lock, closed for the lunch break, so we stopped for lunch too. When we went through it seemed rather absurd, since there was no change in water level. But I suppose it protects in case of flood or drought. Our first sight of Kampen was impressive:



The moorings on the Ijssel looking much as they must have done for hundreds of years:



We found a comfortable berth in a welcoming yacht club harbour on the side of the river, and went to explore the city. Almost immediately we came across the Buiten church, one of four major churches. It was impressive, with good stained glass windows and quite old Stations of the Cross:

 



Walking on, we came to the old Town Hall, with yet another leaning tower:



And a bell tower that serenaded the town with a rather charming bell concert most of the afternoon, and, next to it, a charming cafe, called the Old Bakery:



The town has four well-preserved fortified gates, of which we saw two, this being the first on the waterside:



It was not quite clear why there was a bronze of a blacksmith, but he seemed rather appealing:



The town has a large number of very old buildings, and evidently some need propping up. A very practical solution.



This town house caught our attention just for its height:



After completing our tourist duties, we indulged as usual in both beer and, this time, apple pie! Also buying some kibbeling to reheat for supper, and some Dutch cheese. Then it was time for a supermarket expedition with the shopping trolley that Shirley donated to Saskia many years ago, for mineral water and wine – stocks of Cotes de Provence brought from home have become perilously low!

Tomorrow looks like Harderwijk.

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