We made a leisurely start to what was intended to be a
leisurely day. We discussed stopping at Villefranche, the self-proclaimed
capital of Beaujolais, but it was only 10 km up the river.
From the river, Villefranche is depressingly industrial, and
we decided against stopping there ...
... even though Lyneve, a barge built by a friendly English couple we met yesterday at Trévoux, was comfortably ensconced.
We pushed on, happy to be back in white-cow country: the
famous Burgundian Charolais breed.
We had not seen this method of fishing on the river before.
The other side of the sign on his rig advertises a restaurant. Perhaps this is
the chef catching his dish of the day. He certainly had quite a few fish jumping
about in the net.
We decided to stop at Belleville-sur-Saône,
where we watched the Bastille day fireworks on our way down. This time we
arrived at lunchtime, and found the pontoon empty. After lunch we walked quite
a distance into the town, crossing France’s main north-south motorway on our
way.
The main attraction of Belleville turned out to be a
beautifully preserved Hôtel-Dieu – originally a refuge for the poor and destitute,
and latterly a hospital and hospice. It reminded us of the famous Hospice at Beaune.
The three wards were heated with wood-burning stoves, and in
the winter the old folks would sit around the stoves to keep warm.
The other attraction in Belleville is its large and well-preserved 12th
century church.
The church is striking from inside and outside, with painted
ceilings and columns.
After that, it was the long walk back to the port, though
with a fresh breeze, it wasn’t too hot. All the same, a little liquid sustenance
was required at the bar by the port.
Tomorrow it looks like Macon, where we need to take on fuel.
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