I do like to be beside the seaside

We have reached the Atlantic, and very nice it is too. We woke this morning rather early, thanks to the time difference, to find the pousada shrouded in fog rising off the river. But while we were having breakfast the sun was breaking through, and that’s the way its stayed all day.

At first the motorway to Lisbon was almost traffic-free, but then we reached the massive suspension bridge over the Tagus and there was quite a queue before we could pay our two euros to get across. Then just another half hour to Sintra, which was to be our midday stop.

Sintra is a very hilly little town to the west of Lisbon, which was a favorite retreat of the wealthy and well connected - including kings and queens. Parking was a bit of a nightmare, but eventually we found a slot and set off to walk to the centre. The first major view was the Royal Palace.

Then just as we were wondering how far we would be walking, and how to get around, an ancient red TukTuk stopped and asked if we wanted a ride (more ancient than the one above). After some bargaining we agreed a price for him to take us up to the famous Pena Palace on the top of the mountain. The driver turned out to be Italian, so communication was not a problem - a Tuscan from Lucca, not far from Florence, where Diana lived for years.

First stop was the so-called Chalet, in the extensive gardens of the palace, built by the King for his second wife. The first died giving birth to their 11th child! The second was an opera singer from Boston - they do get about these American women.

The Chalet itself was amusing, but the gardens were lovely and we enjoyed a stroll around about. Then it was back up the hill to the palace, and a long long climb from the entrance to the building itself, in company with hordes of others.

As you can see, there is more than a touch of Disney about the place, and certainly some Rhineland influence - the architect was apparently German.

Inside, the tour was a one-way stream through rooms furnished for the most part with heavy Victorian pieces. We had little desire to linger, but most people wanted to stop and take pictures, and the whole tour was a bit like the famed (infamous) IKEA experience, with no way of bailing out. Once on the treadmill, you had to get to the end whether you liked it or not.

We staggered back down the hill, knees protesting, and were lucky to find another TukTuk, piloted by a charming local girl, who had a bit of an altercation with a policeman who objected to her taking us on. But she won.

She took as down to the Royal Palace in the centre, which was much less crowded, and we toured rapidly. There were some high spots, such as the Magpie Ceiling, supposedly portraying gossiping ladies of the court. And overall it was a more restrained and dignified experience than the Pena.

After all that there was the little matter of locating the car, but fortunately all went well and we set of for Cascais, only half an hour away, where we are staying for two nights. The Hotel Baia, recommended by Lorna (who arranged for a kind greeting in our room), is splendidly situated right on the harbour, as you can see.

We had thought of making an initial foray to Lisbon this afternoon, but by the time we were settled in, and realizing we were quite tired after Sintra, we decided to settle for a stroll around Cascais, which is pretty, busy and quite touristy.

The wave effect of the cobbles is a little disconcerting, but we managed to stay upright!