A sunny day in Sevilla

We set off eagerly for a busy day of culture, but were somewhat stymied to find the local taxi stand not functioning because of various changes to the traffic caused by the Feria. So it was a long walk across the river, with the sun really quite warm. We were dressed for rain and cold winds, which was a mistake. Anyway, eventually we found a taxi which took us to the Casa de la Duenas, family home of the Dukes and Duchesses of Alba, one of Spain’s grandest, and richest families.

Only recently opened to the public, is has a wonderful courtyard, and a lemon garden where the blossom scent was gorgeous. The poet Antonio Machado was brought up in the palace, and wrote many poems about it.

It was fun to see six large mules in the stables being prepared to haul the family carriage through to the Feria.

Indoors was also magnificent, but something of a time capsule, despite the family photographs scattered here and there. But all in all, it was a thoroughly satisfactory visit.

This one is a Murillo, by the way.

After that we strolled down to the thoroughly modern Metropol Parasol, known locally as the mushrooms. There was a concert going on, well attended, which meant we couldn’t get up to the rooftop walk, which is apparently spectacular.

Then we headed for the Barrio de Santa Cruz, the old Jewish quarter, full of narrow winding streets, little squares, and hordes of visitors, many on guided walking tours which occasionally clashed, causing gridlock.

Finding our way was not easy, but we got there, and after a welcome beer, dropped into the Casa de los Venerables. This was once a home for priests fallen on hard times, but now it houses a Velazquez centre, with three paintings by the master and a couple by Murillo. A little exhibit, but well worth while.

It was now getting on for lunchtime, so we opted for the bar Casa Placido, as recommended by Maria, and had two or three excellent tapas, and a glass or two of tinto.

This gave us strength to face the Alcazar, Seville’s other great attraction, along with the cathedral. The line was long, and it took us half an hour to get in, but trees in pots had been thoughtfully placed along the queue, so we did not get burned by the afternoon sun.

Inside we enjoyed the wonderful Arabic architecture and decoration, a marvel of style and balance producing an atmosphere of calm and serenity, despite the hordes of visitors.

On our way to the gardens, we came across a hall of enormous and magnificent tapestries, which we paused to admire.

Then we wandered for a while in the gardens, enjoying the scent of the blossoms, the tinkle of fountains, and the screech of a couple of handsome peacocks.

By this time our stamina was exhausted, so we staggered out, located a nearby taxi rank, and sped home.