Port de l’Ardoise to Viviers – 57 km

Our first lockkeeper of the day at the Caderousse lock was definitely not enjoying working on the national holiday. It took us an hour and a half to get through, which somewhat negated the impact of our early start. But never mind. These things happen.

There was rather a lot of nuclear on our trip today, as you will see. Perhaps after all the papal palaces and so on, a little harsh reality of where power really lies was a good thing. There was also the interesting contrast between mediaeval buildings and brutal modern industrial architecture to contemplate.This was the first nuclear power station we passed, Marcoule.

In contrast, a little further on this is the village of St Etienne, which has a very convenient pontoon to which we tied up for lunch, and also a well-known cooperative Côtes du Rhône wine cellar.

However, despite the promises, obviously doing business on the 15^th  of August was too much to expect.

We trudged on with our wheeled shopping trolley sadly empty, until we finally came across the Domaine des Jonquiers, which also looked closed. However, a ring at the door bell was answered by a pleasant young man who was only too happy to let us taste, and buy, his wines.

A serious business, wine-tasting. But it was good, and we bought enough to fill the trolley.

Then he showed us his vineyard.

The next lock after lunch was the mighty Bollène (all 23 metres of it). There was a bit of a wait, in company with others. We understood why when this giant emerged.

Then it was the Tricastin power station. Four reactors and a sculpture. The French are very proud of their nuclear industry, and the energy independence it has given them. After Tricastin comes the Pierrelatte nuclear centre, where they manufacture, and probably reprocess, fuel. But it is set back from the waterway and not easy to photograph.

So we pressed slowly on up the Donzère Mondragon Canal, which is the long, long canal cut above and below the Bollène, pushing against a nagging current. Finally we emerged back on the river and sighted the cliffs of the Donzère gorge, which meant we were nearly at Viviers. When we arrived, we found Norman and Pat already installed, and ready to take our lines and help us in. To our relief, considering how many boats had overtaken us, there was plenty of room in the small harbour.