It was a bucolic day. Plenty of cows, in and out of the
river. We set off in good time, once again leaving the harbour somewhat
somnolent.
The river continued to charm. Autumn colours starting to
show in places – we feel the chill in the early hours and need a duvet despite it being still
August.
The first lock of the day was at Loisy, which has a handsome
and sturdy water mill. We tied up and were set to prepare the lock ourselves, when three willing hands suddenly appeared. They were boaters waiting to come down, and quite efficiently wound the sluices and opened gates.
Just after the lock, we glimpsed a handsome chateau through the trees.
All along the river, there are many, many people fishing.
Mostly, though not all, men. Some set up camp and apparently stay for days.
Heading for Louhans, we were pleased to see these chickens
being raised really free range.
The approach to the final lock on the river at Branges is narrow
and overgrown, but the lock itself is in excellent condition, like the other
two. As no help was in sight this time, we set to work to prepare the lock and operate the cycle ourselves. Not really difficult, just logical – close one gate or sluice before you open another.
Just beside the lock there is a bar-restaurant with a large garden. Last time we came through here,
years ago, there was a boisterous audience of eating and drinking holidaymakers.
This time no-one. Perhaps it is just late in the season.
Finally we pulled into Louhans and found a spot on the
quayside, once again moored stern to. This seems to have become the norm, and
it certainly means far more boats can be crammed onto small pontoons. Tomorrow we will explore
Louhans, and we plan to stay here until Monday so we can visit the famous poultry
market.
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