Saturday 25 July 2015

Storm bound in den Haag

The day started badly, with a massive thunderstorm in the night, and got worse. However, undeterred, we set off for our cultural experience – a long walk to the station through rather uninspiring cityscape. Then a five minute train ride to the centre that cost 3.50 euro each, which seemed on the steep side, but it was better than walking. At the central station, we could appreciate how the Dutch maybe avoid paying such fares:

We struggled our way through increasing rain and howling wind to our main target, which was the Royal Collection at Mauritshuis – rich guys were really rich in those days!

Inside we found a really terrific collection, along with other refugees from the storm. Holbein, van Dyke, Rembrandts aplenty, Vermeer, of course, Franz Hals and all the other great Dutch painters of the 17th century. Vermeer’s Delft scene included the gate we passed and photographed yesterday:

And of course, this instantly recognizeable young woman was the subject of many a selfie:

Altogether it was a thoroughly satisfying visit, including finding The Goldfinch, subject of Donna Tartt's novel, which Diana has recently read. That photo did not come out well, but the house was magnificent:

Emerging into increasingly vile weather, we headed for the City Hall building designed and executed by the sometimes controversial American architect Richard Meier. We have greatly appreciated his Millennium church in Rome and also his Ara Pacis building, though many hate that, and last summer we came across a gallery of his in Germany, which we liked. So here’s the massive building from the outside:

And a charming sculpture which seemed to have a good message about inclusiveness and integration:

Inside, the building, in which 2,500 civil servants toil away (though not at the weekend), has a massive 10-storey atrium. It was a wonderful airy space, including an outside café where we paused for a refreshing beer.

Then it was back into the storm, clinging to each other to avoid being blown over by the gusts roaring round the corners of the high-rise building. The wet paving was slippery and it was a perilous walk back to the station. We took the expensive train ride back, and then the long walk, in wind and lashing rain, to the boat, arriving completely soaked through. The storm was doing a fair amount of damage including this tree branch:

Finally we reached the harbour, where we met an intrepid mariner who told us that it was blowing force 9 out at sea. He was going home to drink beer. Actually it felt like it here. There was no question of setting sail today: the problem with high winds in confined spaces is controlling the boat without doing damage to others, and also what to do when you have to stop to wait, in this case for a bridge to open, or elsewhere for a lock. So we were relieved to find Saskia reasonably comfortable, and dry, and immediately fired up the central heating, poured some wine and had a late lunch.

By late afternoon the storm seemed to be easing, so perhaps tomorrow morning we will get away to Leiden. Meanwhile we will run the engine for a while so we get hot water for a shower in the morning. 

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